Let’s take stock of hair, the health of which is essential both for aesthetic factors and because it is an indicator of the general well-being of the organism. Let’s see the main pathologies that affect them and the most common hair treatments, with their pros and cons.
Table of Contents
Hair, An Anatomical Description
Hair is an appendage of the skin, hair components that grow on the skin of the human skull. In the form of fluff, they are formed already in the fourth month of fetal life. Typically developed hair is made up of three parts:
- One external to the follicle, visible, called stem or stem ;
- One inside the follicle itself, between the ostium of the follicle and the lower attachment of the arrector pili muscle, called the root ;
- An even deeper one, housed in the lower portion of the deep part of the follicle, is called the bulb.
Hair Life Stages
Hair also has three life stages:
- Anagen phase in which they grow by 1-1.5 cm depending on whether it is a man or a woman, and growth can last for a period ranging between 2 and 7 years;
- The catagen phase, in which growth stops for about two weeks, is also called the resting phase.
- The telogen phase consists of the expulsion of the hair from the follicle to allow the growth of new hair.
Hair, When It’s Healthy
Healthy hair is often considered an aesthetic factor, but it is much more: it is also a sign of physical well-being. A balanced diet rich in vitamins and minerals, combined with good hydration, helps prevent dryness and irritation of the scalp, promoting hair growth and resistance.
Also Read: 7 Recipes To Bring Shine To Your Hair
The Main Ailments
Hair can be affected by various types of disorders. Among the most common, we can mention:
- Androgenetic alopecia is the common hereditary baldness that affects men and women and leads to progressive hair loss starting from the top of the scalp.
- Alopecia areata: An autoimmune disease in which the immune system mistakenly attacks hair follicles, causing hair loss in patches.
- Seborrheic dermatitis: an inflammation that affects the skin, causing redness and flaking, often accompanied by itching and discomfort.
- Dandruff: A common condition in which the scalp produces small white or yellowish flakes.
- Scalp psoriasis: Another autoimmune condition in which the immune system triggers abnormal growth of skin cells, causing plaques and flaking.
- Scarring alopecia: a process of destruction of the hair follicles, which are replaced by scar tissue, which causes irreversible hair loss.
- Scalp ringworm: A fungal infection that affects the scalp and hair follicles, causing itching, flaking, and crusting.
- Medical treatment-induced alopecia: Temporary hair loss due to chemotherapy or other treatments.
Hair Loss
Hair loss, in itself, is absolutely typical: losing 50 to 100 hairs a day is a physiological phenomenon that we often don’t even realize. The cycle of hair growth and loss, known as the telogen cycle, is influenced by multiple factors, including genetics, hormones, and lifestyle. Often in autumn (and sometimes even in spring ), you have the impression of losing more hair than usual: even in this case, there is nothing to worry about.
During the summer, in fact, the scalp undergoes more significant stress due to exposure to sunlight and high temperatures, which can lead to accelerated hair growth. With the arrival of autumn, the hair follicles enter a resting phase, and this can trigger the loss of hair that has accumulated during the previous months. As a rule, it is a temporary situation that does not leave any consequences. If you perceive any more significant changes, it may be appropriate to contact a dermatologist specializing in trichology.
Alopecia
While we have seen that moderate daily hair loss is perfectly normal, alopecia is the loss of hair anywhere on the body. There are various forms:
- Androgenetic alopecia, commonly called baldness, is mainly due to hormonal reasons: it is a progressive thinning that affects men earlier and, especially after menopause, also women;
- Alopecia areata is an autoimmune disease that causes hair to fall out in patches: it is generally a reversible condition;
- Telogen effluvium is a loss of hair in more significant quantities than average during particular periods such as postpartum, phases of intense stress, anemia, debilitating diseases;
- Finally, alopecia can be a temporary side effect of medical treatments, including chemotherapy and radiotherapy.
How To Keep Your Hair Healthy
There are still many false myths circulating about hair health, and it can be challenging to find your way around. Let’s clarify some of the most widespread theories. Some claim that washing your hair too often ruins it and makes it easier to fall out, but this is false: very simply, hair should be cleaned when it is dirty. However, it is essential to do it correctly, with small quantities of suitable shampoo and drying them with a hairdryer at low temperatures.
Some claim that wearing a helmet or hat or queuing accelerates hair loss. In reality, helmets and hats have no responsibility: even hairstyles are harmless as long as they are left “soft” to avoid creating excessive traction. Cutting your hair makes it more robust: false. Cutting your hair makes it tidier and allows you to remove split ends, but it does not affect the activity of the hair follicles.
Treatments That Ruin Your Hair
Those looking for strategies to improve the appearance of their hair are spoiled for choice because any hairdressing salon offers a variety of treatments. But, beyond the immediate aesthetic effect, which ones benefit the health of the hair, and which ones, on the other hand?
Let’s start, for example, with hair lamination. “We talk about lamination when you apply products that restructure the hair from the outside, with a less long-lasting effect. In this case, larger polymers are used, which give brightness and shine, and fatty acids similar to those present in the external part of the hair, including nigella sativa and serenoa repens oil,”
To make your hair shinier, you can also use hair gloss. “These are mixtures of silicones that stop in the external portion of the hair and guarantee excellent results from an aesthetic point of view,” continues Francescon. “The vast majority of products on the market contain silicones because their cosmetic touch is more pleasant than that of natural oils. However, it must also be said that these products shield the polar charges of the hair and therefore make it more vulnerable to traction ”.
And the hair straightener? “It doesn’t do too much damage if it is applied in the right way, that is when the hair has a small degree of humidity : it must be slightly cool to the touch,” underlines the expert. “However, it is good practice to apply thermal protectors , i.e. specific products with synthetic molecules that resist high temperatures (unlike noble oils which easily reach the “smoking point”). With these precautions, the straightener can also be used every day.”
Do Coloring And Keratin Damage The Hair?
“The classic hair dye, with ammonia, is the safest because it has been studied the longest. Fewer critical issues have been reported for colors without ammonia , only because the case reports have been carried out for less time.” “ Does dye damage your hair? If it is done once, and then only dyes the regrown part, no.
The problems begin when you reapply it to the already colored portion . Highlights ruin up to 25% of the disulfide bonds in the hair: if the hairdresser reapplies the bleaching product to the same area for the third or fourth time, the hair obviously suffers irreversible damage. Suppose the professional is competent and finds the right compromise between the desired lightening result and the foreseeable loss of keratin structure.
In that case, the chemical treatment will not cause significant damage and the hair will remain healthier”. Precisely fearing damage, many people prefer to opt for henna, believing it to be more reassuring because it is of vegetal origin. Will it really be like this? “It is not necessarily true that natural products are less harmful than chemical ones. The right precautions are needed in both cases,” replies Francescon.
“The problem with henna arises when you decide to remove it or change color, as it does not respond linearly to bleaching and often forces the hairdresser to repeat bleaching treatments.” We also asked the expert to clarify better what the various keratin treatments consist of. There are also dyes enriched with hydrolyzed keratin and additives to add to the bleach. Still, I have strong doubts that the protein molecules maintain their original structure in these highly alkaline environments.”
“But how do these molecules penetrate the hair? Through the cell membrane complex (CMC) , a complex of membrane cells, “highways” that function by polarity. However, if the polarity has been altered, for example because you comb your hair creating strong tractions (for example when wet), the molecules are no longer able to enter.”
“Other types of keratin treatments, worked hot (passed with a straightener), perform two functions: straightening and repairing,” continues Francescon. “Today, there are approved formulas that give acceptable results, as long as they do not contain prohibited substances or residues of prohibited substances.”
Hair Health Supplements
Hair health supplements can contain various substances, including:
- Keratin, a protein that is produced naturally by the body and is among the main constituents of hair, fur, and nails;
- Biotin or vitamin H, a water-soluble vitamin that helps maintain the structure of the hair and promotes its growth;
- Minerals such as iron, zinc, copper, and magnesium ;
- Amino acids such as cysteine and lysine ;
- Vitamin C, essential for the formation of collagen, which hair as well as the various tissues of the body need;
- Vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant together with vitamin C;
- Vitamin A because it contributes to the formation of sebum;
- Vitamin D because a deficiency can promote hair loss;
- B vitamins are essential for various cellular functions.
Under normal conditions, all these elements are taken in through a healthy diet. Therefore, before taking supplements, it is a good idea to contact your doctor and make sure there is an actual deficiency.
When To Contact The Trichologist Dermatologist
The trichologist is a dermatologist specializing in trichology, that is, in the health of the hair and scalp. You can contact him if you notice:
- Hair loss that is much greater than usual for a prolonged period;
- A progressive thinning;
- Itching, irritation, or discomfort in the scalp;
- Redness, scales, or crusts on the scalp;
- Hair that has become more fragile and thin.
Faced with a phenomenon such as androgenetic alopecia, common to the majority of the adult population, you can choose to be followed by a trichologist, even in the preventive phase, to evaluate an intervention approach immediately. The choice of how and when to address the problem depends mainly on individual sensitivity and the psychological discomfort experienced due to this condition.
Also Read: Do Cortisol Levels Affect Hair Growth